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Tajikistan's roads are open from late May until early November. Roads in low-lying areas are open all year round, but in winter, the high mountain passes are closed by snow. See the Routes section below for more details.
If you plan to travel in spring or early summer, be aware that heavy rainfall can cause mudslides in the mountain regions. When mudslides block the road it may take a day or so to clear. Make sure that your schedule is flexible enough to allow for this possibility.
Hiring a car and driver is the most flexible way to get around, but also the most expensive. If you are travelling as a group of three or four people, the cost of the vehicle is shared and this becomes a more economical option.
Hiring a vehicle is worth considering for long trips where you want to stop and do sightseeing along the way, or where you want to depart from the main road. You are in full control of your itinerary, not the driver or your fellow passengers. It is also a good option if you want to do a day trip from your base (e.g. from Dushanbe to Hissor, Varzob or Nurek).
Once you have found a driver, ask to see their vehicle. Check that it is in good working order and that they have a spare tyre. If everything is satisfactory, negotiate a price before setting off. Make sure that the driver is clear about exactly where you are going and where and how long you want to stop for. (If you decide to deviate from the agreed route they will probably ask for more money).
Inter-city taxis are cheaper than hiring a car for yourself, and are good for getting from one city to another if you don't want to stop on the way or leave the main road. Often they are crowded so it may be a tight squeeze. It's always more comfortable if you can get the front seat.
Inter-city taxis arrive and depart from a terminus, usually located near a bazaar on the edge of town, or beside the bus or train station. You will have to ask where the terminus is located. In large cities like Dushanbe there will be more than one, depending on the destination. Dushanbe's intercity taxi terminuses are located as follows:
- Vodanasos cement factory, for taxis to the north: Varzob, Aini, Penjikent, Khujand
- Sakovat bazaar, for taxis to the south: Qurghonteppa, Kulob
- Dushanbe I Train Station, for taxis to the east: Kofarnihon, Faizabad
- Avtobaza 2929 (Ahmed Donish Street, close to Dushanbe Airport), for taxis to Gorno-Badakhshan: Khorog
- Polytechnic Institute (Djami Avenue), for taxis to the west: Hissor
The best time to look for a taxi is early in the morning. Usually there will be a collection of cars, jeeps and minibuses waiting at the terminus. Find one that is going where you want to go, and negotiate a price for your seat. The driver will wait until his vehicle is full before leaving.
You will usually pay more for a seat in a car than a seat in a minibus. Seat prices are more-or-less fixed but you may have to haggle to discover the correct price and avoid being overcharged. Prices do vary seasonally - generally they are more expensive in the beginning of the season when less people are travelling. If you want to travel a little further than the stated destination, the driver may be willing to take you for an extra payment.
Bus services connect the major cities in Tajikistan, and connect cities with outlying areas. Timetables and fares can be found at the avtovokzal (bus station). Bus services are cheap but slow and infrequent.
Because Tajikistan is mountainous, the rail network is very limited. There are no rail lines directly connecting the north of Tajikistan with the south - it is necessary to go via Termez (Uzbekistan), a torturous journey which takes more than twice the time of travelling by road. For this reason rail travel is generally not recommended as a way of getting around Tajikistan. Train routes and timetables can be found on the Rail Travel page.
Click on the map to enlarge
From Khujand, take the road to Uro-Teppa, where you can pick up the M34. This road goes south over Shahriston Pass (3,378 m) to Aini (150 Km). The M34 continues south through some spectacular gorges along the route of the Fann River, before ascending to Anzob Pass (3,373 m) and down the other side to Dushanbe (162 Km). This journey takes around nine hours without stops.
From Penjikent, take the A377 east along the Zerafshan Valley to Aini (93 Km). At Aini you can pick up the M34 to Khujand or Dushanbe. Penjikent to Dushanbe is also about nine hours' drive.
Note that Anzob Pass is closed for most of the winter - usually from late November until the end of May. Shahriston Pass also closes but usually not for as long. The Tajik government is constructing a tunnel through the mountains to allow all-year-round access between north and south Tajikistan, but it will be some years before this is completed. In December 2003, the Tajik Transport Ministry announced the completion of a new route connecting north and south Tajikistan. However, this route crosses part of Kirgyzstan so would require an extra visa. The only other alternative is to fly - there are several flights daily between Khujand and Dushanbe.
Hissor is about 30 Km west of Dushanbe on the M41. If you are going to Hissor Fort note that this is about 6 Km from Hissor city and it is not on the main road from Dushanbe to Hissor.
Qurghonteppa is just over an hour's drive south of Dushanbe on the A384 (85 Km). The shortest route from Dushanbe to Kulob is via the M41 to Kafornihon and then the A385 to Nurek, Dangara and Kulob (190 Km).
Roads in southern Tajikistan are open all year round. As most of this region is relatively low-lying, there are usually no problems with the road being blocked by snow or mud.
The main road to Khorog is the M41 east of Dushanbe. It's a long way - 525 Km - about 18 hours of driving time. Most drivers stop for the night at Kalaikhum, 285 Km east of Dushanbe. The road between Obigarm and Kalaikhum is in very poor condition, but there is some improvement after Kalaikhum. From Kalaikhum to Khorog, the road follows the Panj River, which forms the border with Afghanistan. It is fascinating to see the differences between one side of the valley and the other.
The road to Khorog is closed in the winter when the passes are snowed in. If you need to travel to Khorog in winter you will probably have to fly. There is an alternative route from Dushanbe to Kalaikhum via Kulob (about 100 Km longer than the direct route), which may provide all-year round access to Kalaikhum and Khorog if the bridges are intact.
The main route from Khorog to Murghab is along the M41 (311 Km). This is a reasonably good road, as it travels through a wide valley and is not so susceptible to damage from falling rocks. The drive can be done in around nine hours.
Much more interesting, however, is the road south from Khorog to Ishkashim and along the Wakhan river valley to Langar. There are many interesting sites along the way - hot springs, fortresses, Buddhist and Zoroastrian temples and the home of a Sufi mystic. The road rejoins the Pamir Highway near Yashikkul. You should allow a couple of days to explore the valley if you choose to take this route.
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